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Surfing is not just a sport that consists of keeping your balance on a board pushed by the force of a wave. Surfing is the connection between the person and the sea, it is feeling the force of the ocean and understanding what it is telling you. Surfers don't like to go to the beach, they are in love with it, that's why they take care of it and defend it if they feel it is not treated as it should be. 

Surfing allows you to feel comfortable in an environment that we are not made for and although at the beginning it is not easy, don't give up, resist, because in the end you will ride that wave.

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